In this post I'll try for some basic getting started pointers, references to good information and some detailed descriptions of regular bike maintenance jobs. The aim is to reduce the risk of problems on a ride, deal with a puncture and enable you to take your cleaned bike to the bike shop when it needs real attention.
Image from Freepik
Q&A
Q1: As an aside, why do some bikes make a rapid clicking sound when freewheeling?
A1: The clicking comes from pawls on the freewheel hitting against the splines on the engagement surfaces which makes up the ratcheting unit. Better quality freewheels/freehubs tend to have more splines, springier pawls and thinner lubricant which can lead to more noise. Okay, now we can move onto sensible questions.
Q2: What basic bike maintenance skills and know-how do I need to go cycling?
A2: The minimum includes:
1. Practice replacing both of the inner tubes; if you have a problem on a ride then it will likely be a puncture. On every ride you need 2 spare inner tubes of the correct size and valve type, a puncture repair kit, tyre levers and the means to inflate the tyre.
2. Calculating your tyre pressures; incorrect tyre pressures can lead to punctures.
3. The basic ABC (Air, Brakes, Chain) check; these are the fundamentals to propelling a bike forward, and then stopping.
4. The more detailed M-check; essential if you want to avoid a nasty accident or a nasty bike shop invoice.
5. Steps to a silent ride; your cycle buddies will appreciate your quiet bike and you will do less work overcoming chain friction. See Q3 below also.
6. Bike cleaning; apart from the obvious it is a good way to spot problems such as loose spokes or worn rims. See Q5 below also.
Q3: How do I maintain my bike chain? Answering this question is a minefield but you need a strategy and one that fits your time constraints.
A3a: Here is a simple approach to drivetrain (chain and cogs) cleaning. Equipment consists of lots of old rags, chain degreaser and chain lubricant. Do this every 100 miles though frequency depends on conditions such as wet or dusty. Click here for more information.
1. Apply degreaser while rotating the cranks backwards so everything gets covered. Let it soak in for 2 minutes to dissolve the chain grease.
2. Use rags to clean the chain, holding a rag against the chain while turning the cranks backwards. A bike cleaning kit will include lots of brushes to get into all the hard to reach places though an old toothbrush, old nail brush or similar is just fine.
3. Rince with water then repeat steps 1 and 2 if required.
4. Clean with warm soapy water as you wash the rest of the bike then rinse with clean water.
5. Allow to dry; use a hair dryer if you are in a hurry, leave in the sun for 2 hours or leave in the garage overnight.
6. Reapply chain lube focusing on lubricating the joints (inside the rollers) rather than the flat plates at the sides. Keep turning the pedals to let the lubricant work into the mechanism; or go for a quick ride. People usually drizzle over the chain but placing a single drop on either side of the rollers is better if you have the patience.
7. Wipe off excess chain lube to stop dust and dirt sticking. You might sensibly do this after that short ride to meet your cycling group.
It helps to get the bike secure so you can turn the cranks backwards thereby getting the chain moving continuously while you follow the steps above. A bike 'handbrake' to help keep the bike stable is useful.
A3b: Use a PTFE based lubricant such as GT85 (or a greener equivalent) on a rag or in a chain cleaning tool to clean grease and dirt from the chain. The formulation of GT85 will act as a light lubricant and will be much less prone to picking up dirt. Apply a tiny amount of regular chain lubricant to the jockey wheels to ensure they run freely without squeeking. There are any number of chain cleaning YouTube videos and this one covers the GT85 method.
A3c: Use a rag to wipe away excessive amounts of the black grime that builds up including pocking a cloth into the jockey wheels which naturally collect grime. Apply chain lubricant and work that into the rollers. Then wipe away all excessive chain lubricant to prevent more dirt sticking to the chain.
Q4: People keep telling me to use my gears more but then they struggle to tell me what to do.
A4: Gears really help you manage your effort, and if used correctly they will prevent (or at least reduce) fatigue on longer rides. Gears aren't difficult to use but you do need to spend time learning how to use them both on and off the bike. There is a useful guide here. Once you know the words and theory you can ask for help again if there are aspects you find difficult. Once you have mastered gears you can ride slowly uphill and keep pedalling downhill for speed within your capabilities and within whatever is safe for you. One way of managing your use of gears is to pick a level of effort for a given ride, say 3/10, and maintain that effort uphill, on the flat, and downhill.
Q5: How do I clean my bike?
A5: De-grease the drivetrain first if you are cleaning that. A bucket of soapy water and a car wash mitten is the most basic then starting at the top just wash the bike. There are assorted brushes and cleaning products but I suggest starting with the basics. The mitten will prevent all those painful knocks and scratches to your hands and you will soon find the parts the mitten cannot reach. Just keep any contaminants (oil, dirt, soap) away from the disc rotors which need to be kept grease free and which can be cleaned with a special bike rotor cleaning product or rubbing alcohol. Basic kit for cleaning a bike and the order in which you clean the three areas:
Drivetrain cleaners: rags, degreaser, a few assorted brushes such as an old toothbrush, and a bucket of clean water to rinse off the degreaser.
Bike cleaners: a hand mit and assorted brushes to get into the detailed areas, soapy water which could be a mild bike shampoo.
Disc brake rotors: specialist disc brake cleaner or rubbing alcohol and a clean microfiber cloth.
Q6: What special tools do I need?
A6: It is worth having a chain wear tool and knowing how to use it so you know when to replace your chain. This will prevent the chainrings and cassette wearing out too quickly. It is also a good indicator that you may be ready for a full service or asking the bike shop to do an M-Check in addition to your own M-Check; for example, a loose headset can be difficult to detect.
Q7: How do I work out the right tyre pressure for my bike and I?
A7: Tyre pressure is based on a wide variety of factors but the main ones are tyre size, bike weight and rider weight. The Old Skool method is to squeeze the sidewalls of the tyres and if they give just a little then that is "right". However, it is worth working out sensible pressures and using a pump with a pressure gauge at least once so you know what "right" feels like. There are many web sites and apps and this one is good. Your tyres may also have min and max allowable tyre pressures written on the sidewall though this doesn't tell you the best pressure for you. Look here for more information.